The full Hawaiian experience: 20 essential destinations

Sunday, October 31, 2004

HONOLULU -- Statistics tell us that this winter, as usual, Hawaii will be one of the most visited vacation spots in the United States. But the 50th state has more to offer than a warm sun, gentle trade winds, swaying hula dancers and soothing ukulele music -- a lot more.

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Here are 20 basic sites and things to do -- five each on the four main Hawaiian Islands. Take them all in and you will have had the full Hawaiian experience.

Oahu

The island of Oahu, home of Hawaii's capital city, Honolulu, and its vacation neighborhood, Waikiki, is usu ally the first stop for visitors.

1. Waikiki Beach. One of the world's most famous stretches of sand, backgrounded by the distinct profile of Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach is headquarters for many first-timers and repeaters to Hawaii. If you're inclined to enter the water, this is the best place to learn surfing.

2. Pearl Harbor. Go to one of the state's most popular visitor attractions, the USS Arizona Memorial and Visitors Center at Pearl Harbor, to appreciate the events of Dec. 7, 1941, the Battle of Pearl Harbor. The Submarine Museum and the battleship USS Missouri are nearby.

3. Downtown Honolulu. Three miles from Waikiki, this is the historical center of Honolulu. Don't miss the Mission Houses Museum, the coral-stone Kawaiahao Church, Iolani Palace (home of the last monarchs of Hawaii), the architecturally dramatic State Capitol, the harbor-side Maritime Museum and the next-door Aloha Tower, at 10 stories, once the tallest building in Honolulu.

4. Nuuanu Pali State Park. This dramatic overlook was the site for the culmination of the Battle of Oahu in 1795, during which thousands of defenders were driven over the 1,000-foot cliff.

5. The North Shore. A world away from the hustle-bustle of Honolulu, the rural areas of Oahu offer small, charming villages like Wailua and Haleiwa, and beautiful, curving shorelines, including some beaches famous for heavy waves and winter surf contests. At the Polynesian Cultural Center, travelers can learn about many cultures of the Pacific islands.

Kauai

The most isolated and most bucolic of the main Hawaiian islands, Kauai is known as the "Garden Island," and its many forests and gardens attest to the name. It is also the home of the legendary "menehunes," the "little people" who supposedly preceded the main Polynesian population of the island.

1. Waimea Canyon. Mark Twain once called this the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific." Its orange and green walls are often spectacular and a great place for hikers to explore.

2. Kalalau Valley. This beautiful but deserted green valley at the water's edge can be seen best from a mountain-top viewpoint, reachable by car, in Kokee State Park. Determined hikers and campers can explore the valley either by boat or via a difficult 11-mile trail from the island's north shore.

3. The South Shore. The home of the popular beaches at Poipu and a couple of luxurious hotels (Hyatt and Sheraton), the southern shoreline also boasts the Spouting Horn. The latter is a natural feature in which waves are funneled into an old lava tube, causing water to shoot into the air, accompanied by a low moan.

4. The Fern Grotto. A boat trip up the Wailua River takes passengers to a cave where ferns grow upside-down on the roof. The excursion is usually accompanied by guides, whose singing and playing enhance the experience.

5. Hanalei and Princeville. On Kauai's north shore, Princeville is a thousand-acre resort community featuring some of the world's best golf courses with terrific views. Nearby Hanalei remains a small and charming village, popular with escapists of all types.

Maui

The most popular Hawaiian island besides Oahu, Maui, "the Valley Isle," sees itself as the perfect vacation destination. Its motto, uttered in the ancient Hawaiian language, is "Maui no ka oi!," simply translated as "Maui is the best." The island is divided into two parts, east and west, each surrounding dominant mountain features.

1. Lahaina and Kaanapali. In West Maui, the wooden buildings along the ocean in the village of Lahaina date to the earliest days of the Hawaiian kingdom. This was the headquarters of the whalers and the missionaries, two groups whose confrontations were covered in James Michener's novel "Hawaii."

Kaanapali is the nearby beach resort area featuring several luxury hotels, condominiums and golf courses.

2. Iao Valley. Often overlooked by first-timers to Maui, the steep green walls of Iao Valley form the centerpiece of an attractive park. Mark Twain and Robert Louis Stevenson enjoyed it and wrote about it, and it hasn't changed much since their visits in the 19th century.

3. Haleakala National Park. The 10,000-foot-high dormant volcano, Haleakala, which literally means "house of the sun," can be ascended by car and even descended by bicycle (on special tours). Many people go up the mountain early to witness the sunrise, but the mountain is interesting at any time of day.

4. Hana. The Hawaiian village of Hana, reached by a 53-mile twisting and turning route, is the most isolated center of civilization on the island. For many, the difficult road itself is a strong attraction, since it passes several scenic parks, waterfalls and other beautiful rural areas. Hana has one luxury hotel and a few bed-and-breakfasts in a luxuriant tropical setting. The grave of Charles Lindbergh is a few miles beyond Hana as is a natural water attraction called the Seven Pools of Kipahulu.

5. Wailea. One of the most carefully planned resort areas in the country, Wailea and the surrounding area boast several excellent hotels and condos along a series of small, attractive beaches. Wailea is the center for much of the island's golf and tennis activity, including tournaments.

The Big Island of Hawaii

The Island of Hawaii, known here simply as "The Big Island," is twice the size of all the rest of Hawaii put together. Two live volcanoes and acres of ranchland give the island its character as a large, rugged and sometimes primitive experience.

1. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The volcanoes of Mauna Loa and Kilauea are the most prominent features of the Big Island. Kilauea has been officially in an eruptive stage for more than 20 years, and park rangers help visitors get a good, yet safe, view. This is one of the few places in the world where volcanic activity can be easily witnessed.

2. The Kona-Kohala Coast. When Kamehameha, the great warrior king, ruled the islands in the 18th century, the west-coast village called Kailua-Kona was his headquarters, and thus the de facto capital of the country. Later, the town became the center of considerable missionary activity, and today it is the headquarters for some of the world's best deep-sea fishing. The coastline to the immediate north of the village, much of it reclaimed from a lava desert, is now lined with luxurious resorts.

3. Waimea and Kamuela. Known as the country's largest privately owned cattle ranch, the Parker Ranch covers more than 200,000 acres. Other ranches in the area combine to give a "paniolo" (Hawaiian cowboy) flavor to the area. Rodeos are often held hereabouts, and winners sometimes go on to compete in mainland Western events.

4. Hilo. The funky little town of Hilo is officially declared to be a city. It is also the seat of Hawaii county and is unfortunately known as the rainiest spot in Hawaii. Most of the precipitation falls at night and in the morning, however, and keeps the area green. Hilo is the center of orchid growing in Hawaii.

5. The Hamakua Coast. The verdant though rugged coastline north of Hilo runs for about 35 miles and features some terrific ocean views. Akaka Falls State Park and the commercial Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden are among several parks and gardens along the way. At the extreme north end is the spectacular Waipio Valley, now almost deserted but once the home of thousands. Only four-wheel drive vehicles are allowed down the steep road, but there is a terrific viewpoint over the edge at the end of the main highway.