Essential Hawaii

A First-Timer's Guide to the Aloha State. You May Choose to Stay Forever.


My family and I stepped off the plane in Honolulu in February 1971, greeted by a warm breeze and a beautiful rainbow. Corny as it sounds, it seemed a colorful and prophetic welcome to our new life in the islands. Now 37 years later, we still love it; and so do other seekers of paradise who travel here, even if they can only spend a week or so in the Aloha State.

Because I used to write an annual guidebook to Hawaii, I often receive letters and phone calls asking me to zero in on just the essentials—my frank opinion on what a newcomer should see and do in a short time while still having fun and gaining an understanding of our unique 50th state.

A guidebook needs to take an all-encompassing approach, of course. However, when I receive a question like that, I try to reply so that visitors do not bite off more than they can chew, perhaps finding themselves on a whirlwind tour trying to see it all at an uncomfortable pace. You know the type—everyone is constantly checking their itinerary to figure out where they are and what comes next: “If this is Tuesday, this must be…Molokai.”

Mark Twain called Hawaii “the loveliest fleet of islands in any ocean,” and I hold that the description still stands. On the map, you will see that what is now the Aloha State consists of eight main islands. For first-timers on a limited schedule, I usually recommend three: Oahu, Hawaii and Maui.

What about the other five? Well, tiny Kahoolawe and Niihau are prohibited to casual visitors. Molokai and Lanai are also small and offer relatively limited attractions. More distant Kauai, a quiet, bucolic landscape far over the horizon, might logically be the first choice for your next visit to the Islands.


OAHU

The hotels in Waikiki have facilities comparable to the best anywhere in the world. Just outdoors, the famous golden sands, with the iconic volcanic crater called Diamond Head in the background, together serve as the reigning standard for tropical paradises everywhere. Many learn to surf on the friendly waves at Waikiki Beach. Others may take a thrilling ride on a surfing canoe, or just swim and play in the gentle waves close to shore.

Of course, Oahu is not all beach. Perhaps the most well-known site for Americans is the U.S. Naval Station at Pearl Harbor. The World War II memorial that spans the hulk of the USS Arizona, the battleship sunk on Dec. 7, 1941, is arguably the state’s most popular tourist magnet.

Nearby are other military-themed attractions. I recommend visiting the Bowfin, a genuine World War II submarine you can crawl through from stem to stern; the battleship USS Missouri, known for hosting the Japanese surrender ceremonies; and the new Pacific Aviation Museum.

The area called Downtown Honolulu has its own settings that witnessed historic events. The nearby Iolani Palace, built by the last king of Hawaii, is the only royal palace in the U.S. and is now maintained as a museum.

Oahu’s spectacular coastline has many other alluring features, one of the best being Hanauma Bay, an underwater park where visitors donning a mask and snorkel can easily see many colorful reef fish. Even non-swimmers who stay in shallow water near the shore can enjoy the experience.

Oahu’s North Shore is well known for its rural scenery and winter surfing contests. It is also the location of the Polynesian Cultural Center—a theme park featuring excellent examples of music, dance and colorful cultural activities from many islands and countries throughout the Pacific Ocean.


 

HAWAII

The Island of Hawaii, the state’s namesake, is known universally as the Big Island. It is indeed more than double the size of all the other islands put together, and still growing.

Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, two volcanic mountains standing 13,000 feet dominate the landscape. On the lower slopes of Mauna Loa is Kilauea, one of the most active, yet safest volcanoes that can be visited anywhere—at least it is safe if you follow the rangers’ rules. Kilauea is the centerpiece of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, and is not to be missed by any malihini—Hawaiian for first-timer.

Near Mauna Kea is Parker Ranch, one of the largest cattle spreads in the U.S. Its founding in 1847 figures into the early history of Hawaii. There are several facilities for visitors, and we’ve even enjoyed an occasional rodeo at the ranch.

Some intrepid visitors use the area as a base for driving to the summit of Mauna Kea, which is capped by snow during the winter. There, above the clouds, are several astronomical observatories that regularly contribute significant discoveries about the universe.

I once took a picture there of a snowplow bearing a Hawaiian license plate, a rare combination.


It may look like the Garden of Eden,
but it’s not—it’s Maui.

MAUI

The lovely island of Maui is a fun-loving combination of modern sophistication and ancient history wrapped up in a single destination. It features a dormant volcano called Haleakala, meaning “House of the Sun,” and is the key attraction of Haleakala National Park. The traditional way to experience the volcano is to drive up in the cold, dark hours of the morning to take in the dramatic experience when the sun seems to rise from the dusty crater at the 10,000-foot summit.

The gentle, lower slopes of Haleakala, known as “up country,” are cooler than the tropical environs down at sea level. A winery, flower farms, ranches and small villages in the area have special charm of their own.

All the islands offer a luau, but we usually remember the ones we experienced on Maui: Tiki torches and the golden glow of the setting sun lighting the outdoor food and fun, with hula dancing and Hawaiian music. Smaller islands can be seen in the distance over waves and between the towering palms. It is beautiful and unforgettable.

The whole aural and visual experience seems to embody the aloha spirit; the feeling of beauty and good will that forms the most lasting memory of a Hawaiian vacation. Our family arrived in Hawaii with round-trip tickets. Later, after experiencing a sunset luau and swimming through shoals of colorful fish, we cancelled our return flights and sent for our furniture—that is a true story and it might just happen to you.


Before travel writer Robert W. Bone settled in Hawaii in 1971, he lived and worked in Illinois, Ohio, Idaho, California, New York, England, Belgium, Brazil and Spain. He has traveled to and written about dozens of foreign countries. He is the author of four travel guidebooks and has contributed to several more. More of his travel pieces can be seen at http://travelpieces.com.