Going Over Down Under This September the rest of the world will learn what Sydneysiders — residents of Australia's largest city — have known all along: Sydney deserves a ranking among the world's great cities. American GIs stationed in Australia during World War II might remember a buttoned-down country with bland food and bars that closed at 6 p.m. The Park Hyatt Hotel, in the foreground, affords front-row views of the Sydney Opera House. But when the global spotlight shines on the Summer Games of the 27th Olympiad from September 15 to October 1, the backdrop will be a thriving metropolis with world-class opera, cutting edge theater, and some of the most innovative dining anywhere. Sydney's transformation began long before the architecturally audacious Sydney Opera House pierced the skyline in 1973. But in preparation for the summer Olympics, the city's sprucing up has accelerated like a sprinter at the starting line. Developers have turned previously languishing downtown office buildings into smart apartment complexes. A new rail link connects the airport to the central business district, and a new ferry route has opened from Circular Quay to Homebush Bay, site of Sydney Olympic Park, where most of the events will take place. And last year, the Sydney City Council encouraged restaurants and pubs to stay open at least until midnight. Which gives visitors more time to dine at trendy eateries such as Edna's Table, where diners can sit in boomerang-shaped chairs and sample dishes made from local livestock such as kangaroo, emu, and crocodile. Or visitors can go to Post, a restaurant on the lower ground floor of the 125-year-old, newly restored General Post Office in the central business district. Here you can savor risotto osso bucco or chicken liver "parfait" with green tomato chutney. As Sydneysiders say, "If you're not living in Sydney, you're just camping out!" — Robert W. Bone

Food for Flight Warm lobster salad and Szechuan duck confit at 30,000 feet? That's what you might get if you fly Qantas to Australia before, during, or after the summer Olympics. Qantas passengers can enjoy meals developed in Neil Perry's flight kitchen. The country's national airline has added flights and upgraded meal service. Neil Perry, owner/chef of Sydney's popular Rockpool restaurant and the even hipper Wockpool, has created new menus for first and business classes, and Len Evans, an authority on Australian vintages, heads a committee of experts that has created the wine lists. The airline even built Perry a special flight kitchen in Sydney. Later this year, Perry's operation will also plan menus for economy class. Roasted white rock veal rack with star anise jus and spinach, anyone? — R.W.B.