Hawaii Island by Island: A First Timer's Guide

Text and photos © By Robert W. Bone

        HONOLULU -- For nearly a century, the colorful Hawaiian Islands have represented everybody's dream vacation, offering more than just a relatively cool summer and a delightfully warm winter.

Year-round tropical trade winds, a gentle climate, beautiful beaches, bright flowers, inviting music and dance, and a gracious population all combine to welcome any malihini (newcomer) to these shores.

The congenial attitude that pervades the atmosphere is what islanders call the Aloha Spirit.

The islands today represent a fascinating stew of cultures. It is not only the Polynesians, the first occupants of the islands, but a combination of groups including Japanese, Chinese, Koreans, Filipinos, and even Portuguese, all U.S. citizens living under the American flag. Our fiftieth star belongs to the Aloha State; in 1959 it was the last to be admitted to the union.

Six main islands, each with its individual characteristics, are available for exploration by malihinis. Frequent flights between them are offered by three local airlines, and many of the world's cruise lines call at several of them.

OAHU

Honolulu, the capital, statistically includes the entire island of Oahu. Counting both urban and rural dwellers, the population numbers a little more than 800,000, or about four-fifths of the entire state, which adds up to just over a million.

Here is action-packed Waikiki, its famous beach backgrounded by the distinctive profile of the dormant volcano called Diamond Head. Over the past 50 years, Waikiki has become the epitome of the successful resort area. Its hotels, restaurants, and night clubs added to the timeless lure of sand and surf make a successful vacation for a wide variety of travelers.

Dozens of large hotels include the 1901 Moana (now part of the Sheraton Moana-Surfrider), and the 1925 Royal Hawaiian (both Tel. 800/325-3535). They are considered the two grande dames of the beach.

Added to that are the Outrigger Reef (Tel. 800/68-7444), and super-modern and double-deluxe addresses like the Halekulani (Tel. 800/367-2343) and the Hyatt Regency Waikiki (Tel. 800/233- 1234). Daily double rates run from around $200 up, up, and up in populous -- and popular -- Waikiki, although a few good addresses just a short walk from the shore may be had for around half the fare for the beachside behemoths.

Oahu is not all Waikiki. Three miles away, Downtown Honolulu has structures relating to the Hawaiian monarchy and the missionaries who brought western concepts to Hawaii. Iolani Palace is called the only royal palace in the United States.

A new development Downtown is the Aloha Tower Marketplace, an attractive waterfront shopping complex surrounding the famous old tower that greets all incoming cruise ships.

Then there's rural Oahu, paved with sugar cane and pineapple fields, and ringed with a group of attractive, seldom-used beaches, many of them special ``finds'' for visitors in rental cars. And don't miss visiting the memorial over the sunken battleship USS. Arizona out at Pearl Harbor.

MAUI

The most popular of the ``Neighbor Islands,'' Maui exudes a surprising degree of sophistication, though at a pace of life somewhat slower than Oahu. There are well-manicured golf courses, along with a considerable area of wilder green and mountainous acreage that is seldom explored, except by hiking or riding horseback.

West Maui, dominated by the West Maui Mountains (peaks formed from an ancient, deeply eroded volcano), is anchored by the old whaling village of Lahaina. It was the scene of so much missionary versus merchant/sailor conflict in James Michener's novel, ``Hawaii.''

Near Lahaina is the original Kaanapali resort area, which lines an especially broad strip of beach. There are some of the most well-established hotels such as the Marriott (Tel. 800/228-9290), the Westin (Tel. 800/228-3000), and the Hyatt Regency (Tel. 808/233-1234). Farther out at Kapalua, the super deluxe Kapalua Bay Hotel and Villas (Tel. 800/367-8000), has rates beginning at $185, although most are over $200. Rates at the nearby Ritz Carlton (Tel. 800/241-3333) begin at $285.

East Maui is monopolized by one giant volcano that the Hawaiians called Hale-a-ka-la. It means, literally, the ``House of the Sun,'' and it is the traditional place to watch the sunrise for those who drive up to the 10,000-foot summit before dawn.

Along the southern shoreline of East Maui are the newer and relatively secluded Wailea and Makena resort areas. Here you find all-luxury establishments including the Four Seasons (Tel. 800/334-6284), the Grand Wailea (800/888-6100), the Kea Lani (Tel. 800/882-4100), and the Maui Prince (800/321-MAUI).

On the extreme east end of the island, at the end of a winding, though scenic 50-mile, two-lane road, lies the lush Hawaiian village of Hana, and its principal industry, the rambling Hotel Hana Maui (Tel. 800/325-3535). If you don't want to drive out, you can fly in via Island Air.

KAUAI

Isolated Kauai, known as the Garden Island, is in the opposite direction from Oahu, and is preferred by those who say they want a still more bucolic, countrified vacation in Hawaii.

Kauai residents are fighting an image in the minds of many who believe it is still devastated by a 1992 hurricane. All that is in the past, now. The island has bounced back with its traditional flowers and greenery, even though a few hotels remain closed, largely because of insurance and legal problems.

Two or three top-notch resorts now dominate the scene. On the southern shore is the Hyatt Regency Kauai (Tel. 800/233-1234), which boasts some of the best architecture and grounds in the state. And on the far north edge of the island is the Princeville Hotel (Tel. 800/826-4400), which captures the most beautiful views, familiar to some from the musical movie, ``South Pacific.'' Near the airport and the county seat of Lihue, the former Westin Kauai Hotel has now opened as a Marriott.

MOLOKAI

The small, slipper-shaped island of Molokai, is seldom visited by travelers. Nevertheless, on the extreme western end, the relatively rustic Kaluakoi Villas (Tel. 800/367-5004), on a challenging 18-hole golf course, beckons to those who do so. Rates are $105 up.

Other things to see on the island include the former leprosy colony of Kalaupapa, a beautiful area which will soon become a national park, and for those who make the long, 100-mile round-trip to the east end, the dramatic Halawa Valley. Now virtually deserted, Halawa was once the home of thousands of Hawaiians.

LANAI

Even smaller than Molokai, privately owned Lanai is traditionally known as the Pineapple Island, because of its previous position as the largest single pineapple plantation in the world. However, the prickly fruit is now out of production there, and in the past few years Lanai has become the site of two of the most exclusive resorts in Hawaii, both of them part of the famous Rockresorts chain (Tel. 800/321-4666). They appeal to golfers as well as isolationists. Rates begin at $250 and run up very quickly.

The newer is the Manele Bay Hotel, near Hulopoe Beach, the most inviting stretch of sand on the island. The other is an unusual retreat on the edge of the pine forest village in the center of the island. Called the Lodge at Koele, it is styled much like an English country manor house. The hotels provide frequent transportation between the sister properties.

THE ISLAND OF HAWAII

Throughout the state, it is known simply as``the Big Island,'' since it officially has the same name as the entire state. It adds up to more than 4,000 square miles, twice the size of the rest of the chain together, but with fewer than 150,000 souls scattered over the landscape.

Sometimes called the Orchid Island, due to its flower-growing activities, it should be better known as the Volcano Island, since it is here that an eruption has been going on almost continuously since January, 1983. The 2,000-degree lava often pours dramatically into the ocean at the edge of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Rangers try to help visitors get close views and still remain on safe, solid ground, but the most dramatic experience is still had by hovering in a helicopter over the flow.

The Big Island could also be known as the Cowboy Island, since much of its vast acreage is given over to cattle ranges. In fact the largest privately owned ranch in the U.S. is on the Big Island. And some could draw a case for calling it the Astronomy Island, since the summit of 13,800-foot Mauna Kea seems almost covered with some of the world's most prestigious telescopes. There scientists regularly announce new discoveries about our universe.

The island often seems to attract outdoors-oriented folks, many with a passion for nature or scientific subjects. In any case, the tourist action is centered on the western shore of the Big Island, north of the old village of Kailua-Kona. Here, where Hawaiian kings roamed in pre-contact days, you'll find a series of pleasure palaces with rates beginning at around $200 a day.

These include the Mauna Lani Bay, (Tel. 800/356-6652), the Ritz Carlton Mauna Lani (Tel. 800/241-3333), the Hilton Waikoloa Village (formerly the Hyatt, and the famous dolphin pond is still there, Tel. 800/HIL-TONS), and the new Hapuna Beach Hotel (Tel. 800/735-1111). It's older sister, the venerable Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, has also reopened after extensive renovation. (Phone 800/822-6060.) A genuinely unique headquarters is the Kona Village Resort (Tel. 800/367-5290), whose thatched roofs cover unusual ``plush primitive'' accommodations for around $400, full American plan.

There are also a few hotels in Hilo, the county seat, which is conveniently closer to the volcano. This includes the Hawaii Naniloa (Tel. 800/367-5360), on Banyan Drive, with doubles beginning around $100. And in the national park itself, there is the rambling old Volcano House itself (Tel. 808/967-7321), perched almost on the edge of Kilauea Crater. Modest twins begin at $80.

Most visitors consider a car a must. (Circling the Big Island is at least a two-day operation, if you're going to do any sightseeing at all.) As on other islands, rentals are available from both the national chains and some local operations.

Read also: Wondrous Waterfalls of Hawaii

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