The Wondrous Waterfalls of Hawaii
MANY ARE EASY TO DRIVE TO; OTHERS ARE APPROACHABLE ONLY IN A WET HELICOPTER
Text and photos © By Robert W. Bone
Hawaii is home to scores of waterfalls -- some permanent, some that come and go with the rainfall. In many cases, catching a glimpse of these falls can be as easy as pulling the car off the road or taking a short stroll; actually reaching some of them can be a more difficult endeavor.
Even in metropolitan Honolulu there are a couple of lovely but out-of-the-way falls that many residents have probably never seen. To find them, they would have to make an effort and know where to look.
Here is an island-by-island wrap-up of several of Hawaii's more interesting waterfalls -- from dramatic ones favored as backdrops by fashion photographers and filmmakers to some that can be seen only from a helicopter.
MAUI
Although there are falls more than 1,000 feet high in the rugged mountains of west Maui, they are almost impossible to reach. Some hotshot helicopter pilots find tall, unnamed falls on the lower slopes of Haleakala, an extinct volcano, and then -- after zooming in on the base of the falls -- give their passengers a thrilling ``elevator ride,'' ascending vertically alongside the roaring flow.
Wailua Falls. The name is the same (``twin waters'') as the waterfall on Kauai, but this one flows right next to the road a few miles outside the tiny village of Hana, on Maui's far eastern end. Sometimes the flow is so violent that you may want to roll up your car's windows. A mile or so farther are the Seven Pools of Kipahulu, where water spills from one pool to the other until it reaches the ocean. Swimming is excellent in the pools but dangerous in the sea below. On a quiet day there's probably no better place on Maui for a picnic.
Puohokamoa Falls. The main feature of a small state park, Puohokamoa can be seen from a stop along the winding road to Hana. It is only one of several falls along the highway, and the park also features a pleasant grassy area, with a picnic table or two, from which the water can be seen. Some visitors swim in the refreshing pool at the base of the falls.
HAWAII
Rainbow Falls. Right in the city of Hilo, this 80-foot cascade sometimes manages to pour 300 million gallons a day. On sunny mornings the spray causes a bright, colorful rainbow to form at the base.
Akaka Falls. The Big Island's second-most famous falls, it is one of the state's tallest. The vertical drop has been measured at 442 feet. You'll come to the falls after a shady, half-hour walk along a fragrant floral path in Akaka Falls State Park. It's just off Route 19, a few miles north of Hilo.
KAUAI
Kauai has some of the best falls in the state, but getting close to many will require trudging through the outback or taking a fly-by tour.
Wailua Falls. Arguably Kauai's most famous waterfall, the twin cataract was used in the opening scene of the old ``Fantasy Island'' TV series. The 80-foot cascade is usually reached after a four-mile drive though sugar cane fields near Lihue. It is also a popular destination for helicopter tours in the area.
Opaekaa Falls. It is impossible to closely approach this picturesque feature, but it is easily seen from a lookout on Kuamoku Road (Route 580) on Kauai's eastern shore. Unlike some of Hawaii's waterfalls, which appear only during abundant rainfall, this one flows year round. It has formed a backdrop in many Hollywood films.
OAHU
Waikahalulu Falls. Virtually in downtown Honolulu, this forms the centerpiece of Liliuokalani Gardens, named after the last reigning monarch of Hawaii. The quiet park is hidden at the end of the narrow Waikahalulu Lane, off School Street, not far from Nuuanu Avenue. The waterfall is only about 20 feet high, but it is wide and varied enough to be interesting. Because of the urban environment, bathing in the bacteria-laden pool at the base is considered unsafe today. However, the location is picturesque and often serves as an effective background for fashion photographers.
Kapena Falls. Here the rapidly moving Nuuanu stream has carved out a freshwater swimming hole popular with teenagers. It is easy to find once you know the way, and most accessible from a trail behind the Nuuanu Memorial Park cemetery, near the Japanese pagoda, also seen from the Pali Highway. There's an ancient petroglyph along the trail. Take some mosquito lotion along.
Waipuhia Falls. This is better known as ``Upside Down Falls'' because the water often tries to tumble over a cliff in the Koolau range, only to be met by strong winds that disperse it into the air. Drivers along the Pali Highway near the Honolulu side of the tunnel can sometimes catch a glimpse of this phenomenon. (Waipuhia means ``blown water.'')
Waimea Falls. On the North Shore of Oahu, the 55-foot-high cascade forms the centerpiece of Waimea Falls Park. There's an admission charge for the attractive nature reserve, with its flowers and peacocks. In ancient times, the valley was the home of thousands of Hawaiians. Capt. James Cook's ships took on water there in 1779. Swimming is permitted in the large natural pool under the falls.
MOLOKAI
Moaula and Olupena Falls. This island's dramatic falls land in Halawa Valley at the eastern end of Molokai. Before descending into the valley, you have a distant view of Moaula Falls and Olupena Falls, which drop 250 and 300 feet, respectively.
Later you can begin an hour-long hike alongside the remains of ancient Hawaiian stone fences on either of the two falls. According to legend, a fierce lizard lives under the surface of the pool at Moaula. To test his mood, throw a ti leaf on the water. If it sinks, the creature is testy and you should refrain from swimming.
You can take a boat from Halawa along Molokai's north shore to see the highest sea cliffs in the world. Stretching up to 3,000 feet, the green precipices are often laced with ribbons of temporary waterfalls. In a once-populated, now-deserted north shore valley, Papalaua Falls drops 1,200 feet. The tallest permanent waterfall in the state, nearby Kahiwa Falls, has been measured at 1,750 feet.
Read also: Hawaii, Island by Island